I-An introduction to Turkish cuisine.
II-A nurturing environment.
III-Kitchen
of the imperial palace.
IV-A repertoire of food from the great food
places.
a}Grains: Bread to
borek
b}Grilled meats
c}Vegetables d}"Meze" dishes to accompany the
spirits. e}Seafood f}The real story of sweets:
Beyond Baklava.
g}Beverages: Beyond Turkish coffee and "Ayran". V-Food protocol for the culturally correct. VI-Food and spirituality. VII-Contemporary concerns: Diet and health
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Culinary attitudes towards meat, dairy products, vegetables and grains
that characterized this early period still make up the core of Turkish
thinking. Early Turks cultivated wheat and used it liberally in several
types of leavened and unleavened breads either baked in clay ovens, fried
on a griddle, or buried in embers. "Mantı" (dumpling), and "buğra", (the
ancestor of "börek", or filled pastries, named for Bugra Khan of
Türkestan) were already among the much-coveted dishes of this time.
Stuffing not only the pastry but also all kinds of vegetables was common
practice, and still is, as evidenced by dozens of different types of
"dolma". Skewering meat as well as other ways of grilling, later known to
us as varieties of kebab, and dairy products, such as cheeses and yogurt,
were convenient staples of the pastoral Turks. They introduced these
attitudes and practices to Anatolia in the 11th century. In return they
met rice, the fruits and vegetables native to the region, and hundreds of
varieties of fish in the three seas surrounding the Anatolian Peninsula.
These new and wonderful ingredients were assimilated into the basic
cuisine in the millennium that
followed. Anatolia is the region
known as the "bread" basket of the world. Turkey; even now, is one of the
seven countries in the world which produces enough food to feed its own
populace and still has plenty to export. The Turkish landscape encompasses
such a wide variety of geographic zones, that for every two to four hours
of driving, you will find yourself in a different zone amid all the
accompanying changes in scenery temperature, altitude, humidity;
vegetation and weather. The Turkish landscape has the combined
characteristics of the three oldest continents of the world (Europe,
Africa, and Asia) and an ecological diversity surpassing any other country
along the 40th latitude. Thus, the diversity of the cuisine has taken on
that of the landscape with its regional variations.
In the eastern
region, you will encounter rugged, snow-capped mountains where the winters
are long and cold, along with the highlands where the spring season with
its rich wild flowers and rushing creeks extends into the long and cool
summer. Livestock farming is prevalent. Butter, yogurt, cheese, honey,
meat and cereals are the local food. Long winters are best endured with
the help of yogurt soup and meatballs flavoured with aromatic herbs found
in the mountains, followed by endless servings of
tea. The heartland is
dry steppe with rolling hills, and endless stretches of wheat fields and
barren bedrock that take on the most incredible shades of gold, violet,
and cool and warm greys, as the sun travels the sky. Along the trade
routes were ancient cities with lush cultivated orchards and gardens.
Among these Konya, the capital of the Seljuk Empire (the first Turkish
State in Anatolia), distinguished itself as the center of a culture that
attracted scholars, mystics, and poets from all over the world during the
13th century. The lavish cuisine that is enjoyed in Konya today, with its
clay-oven (tandir) kebabs, böreks, meat and vegetable dishes and helva
desserts, dates back to the feasts given by Sultan Ala ad-Din Keykubad in
1237 A.D.
Towards the west, one eventually reaches warm, fertile valleys between
cultivated mountainsides and the lace-like shores of the Aegean where
nature is friendly and life has always been easy-going. Fruits and
vegetables of all kinds are abundant, including, best of all, sea food!
Here, olive oil becomes a staple and is used both in hot and cold
dishes. The
temperate zone of the Black Sea Coast, to the north, is protected by the
high Caucasian Mountains and abounds in hazelnuts, corn and tea. The Black
Sea people are fishermen and identify themselves with their ecological
companion, the shimmering "hamsi," a small fish similar to the anchovy.
There are at least forty different dishes made with hamsi, including
desserts! Many poems, anecdotes and folk dances are inspired by this
delicious
fish. The
southeastern part of Turkey is hot and desert-like offering the greatest
variety of kebabs and sweet pastries. Dishes here are spicier compared to
all other regions, possibly to retard spoilage in hot weather, or as the
natives say, to equalize the heat inside the body to that
outside!
The culinary center of the country is the Marmara Region, including
Thrace, with Istanbul as its Queen City. This temperate, fertile region
boasts a wide variety of fruits and vegetables, as well as the most
delicately flavoured lamb. The variety of fish that travel the Bosphorus
surpasses that of other seas. Bolu, a city on the mountains, supplied the
greatest cooks for the Sultans Palace, and even now, the best chefs in the
country come from Bolu. Since Istanbul is the epicenter of the cuisine, a
survey of the Sultans kitchen is required to understand it.
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