I-An introduction to Turkish
cuisine. II-A nurturing environment. III-Kitchen
of the imperial palace.
IV-A repertoire of food from the great food
places. a}Grains: Bread to
borek b}Grilled meats
c}Vegetables d}"Meze" dishes to accompany the
spirits. e}Seafood f}The real story of sweets:
Beyond Baklava.
g}Beverages: Beyond Turkish coffee and "Ayran". V-Food protocol for the culturally correct. VI-Food and spirituality. VII-Contemporary concerns: Diet and health
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The huge kitchens were housed in several buildings under ten domes.
By the 17th century some thirteen hundred kitchen staff were housed in the
Palace. Hundreds of cooks, specializing in different categories, such
as soups, pilafs, kebabs, vegetables, fish, breads, pastries, candy and
helva, syrups and jams, and beverages, fed as many as ten thousand
people a day and, in addition, sent trays of food to others in the city as
a royal favor. The
importance of food has also been evident in the structure of the Ottoman
military elite, known as the Janissaries. The commanders of the main
divisions were known as the Soupmen, other high ranking officers included
the Chief Cook, the Scullion, the Baker, and the Pancake Maker, though
their duties had little to do with food. The huge cauldron used to make
pilaf had a special symbolic significance for the Janissaries, and was the
focal point of each division. The kitchen was at the same time the
center of politics, for whenever the Janissaries demanded a change in
the Sultan's Cabinet, or the head of a grand vizier, they would overturn
their pilaf cauldron. "Overturning the cauldron," is an expression
still used today to indicate a rebellion in the
ranks. It was in this
environment that hundreds of the Sultans' chefs, who dedicated their lives
to their profession, developed and perfected the dishes of the Turkish
cuisine, which was then adopted in areas from the Balkans to southern
Russia, and even as far as North Africa. Istanbul was then the capital of
the world and had all the prestige, so its ways were imitated. At the same
time, it was supported by an enormous organization and infrastructure
which enabled all the treasures of the world to flow into it. The
provinces of the vast Empire were integrated by a system of trade routes
with caravanserais for refreshing the weary merchants and security forces.
The Spice Road, the most important factor in culinary history was under
the full control of the Sultan. Only the best ingredients were allowed to
be traded under the strict standards established by the
courts. Guilds played
an important role in the development and sustenance of the cuisine.
These included hunters, fishermen, cooks, kebab cooks, bakers, butchers,
cheese makers and yogurt merchants, pastry chefs, pickle makers, and
sausage merchants. All of the principal trades were believed to be sacred
and each guild traced its patronage to the saints. The guilds set price
and quality controls. They displayed their products and talents in
spectacular parades through Istanbul streets on special occasions, such as
the circumcision festivities for the Crown Prince or religious
holidays.
Following the example of the Palace, all
of the grand Ottoman houses boasted elaborate kitchens and competed in preparing feasts
for each other as well as for the general public.
In fact, in each neighborhood, at least one household would open its doors
to anyone who happened to stop by for dinner during the holy month of
Ramadan, or during other festive occasions. This is how the
traditional cuisine evolved and spread, even to the most modest corners
of the country.
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