I-An introduction to Turkish cuisine.
II-A nurturing environment.
III-Kitchen of the imperial palace.
IV-A repertoire of food from the great food places.
a}Grains: Bread to borek
b}Grilled meats
c}Vegetables
d}"Meze" dishes to accompany the spirits.
e}Seafood
f}The real story of sweets: Beyond Baklava.
g}Beverages: Beyond Turkish coffee and "Ayran".
V-Food protocol for the culturally correct.
VI-Food and spirituality.
VII-Contemporary concerns: Diet and health
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Residents
of the coastal cities are experts in preparing fish. However, the best of
the day's catch is immediately transported to Ankara, where some of the
finest fish restaurants are located. Winter is the premium season for
eating fish. That is the time when many species of fish migrate from
the Black Sea to warmer waters and when most fish reach their mature size.
So, the lack of summer vegetables is compensated by the abundance of
fish at this time. Every month has its own preferred catch, along with
certain vegetables which complement the taste. For example, the best
bonito is eaten with garlic and red onions, blue fish with lettuce, and
turbot with cos lettuce. Large bonito may be poached with celery root.
Mackerel is stuffed with chopped onion before grilling, and summer
fish, which are younger and drier, will be poached with tomatoes and green
peppers, or fried. Bay leaves always accompany both poached and grilled
fish. Grilling fish over charcoal,
where the fish juices hit the embers and envelope the fish with the smoke,
is perhaps the most delicious way of eating mature fish, since this
method brings out the delicate flavor. This is also why the grilled fish
sold by vendors right on their boats is so
tasty. "Hamsi" is the prince of all fish
known to Turks: the Black Sea people know forty-one ways of making hamsi
including hamsi borek, hamsi pilaf and hamsi
dessert! Another common seafood
is the mussel, eaten deep-fried, poached, or as a mussel dolma and mussel
pilaf. Along the Aegean, octopus and squid are added to the meze spread.
The places to taste fish are fish restaurants and taverns. Not all taverns
are fish restaurants, but most fish restaurants are taverns and these are
usually found on the harbors overlooking the sea. The Bosphorus is famous
for its fisherman's taverns, large and small, from Rumeli Kavagi to
Kumkapi. The modest ones are small with wooden tables and rickety wooden
chairs, nevertheless they offer delicious grilled fish. Then there are the
elaborate, fashionable ones in Tarabya and Bebek. Fish restaurants always
have an open-air section right by the sea. The waiters run back and forth
between the kitchen, perhaps located in the restaurant across the street,
and the tables on the seaside. After being seated, it is customary to
visit the kitchen or the display to pick your fish and discuss the way you
want it to be prepared. The price of the fish also disclosed at this time.
Then you swing by he meze display and order the ones you want. So
the evening begins, sipping raki in between sampling of meze,
watching the sunset, and slowly setting the pace for conversation that
will continue for hours into the night. Drinking is never a hurried,
loud, boisterous, or lonely affair. It is a communal, gently festive and
cultured way of entertainment. In these fish restaurants couple of
families may spend an evening with their children running around the
restaurant they are fed, while the teenagers sit at the table
patiently listening to the conversation and occasionally
participating, when the topic is soccer or rock music.
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