I-An introduction to Turkish cuisine.
II-A nurturing environment.
III-Kitchen of the imperial palace.
IV-A repertoire of food from the great food places.
a}Grains: Bread to borek
b}Grilled meats
c}Vegetables
d}"Meze" dishes to accompany the spirits.
e}Seafood
f}The real story of sweets: Beyond Baklava.
g}Beverages: Beyond Turkish coffee and "Ayran".
V-Food protocol for the culturally correct.
VI-Food and spirituality.
VII-Contemporary concerns: Diet and health
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This, of
course, is not true. First of all, the family of desserts is much richer
than just these two. Secondly, these are not typical desserts served as
part of a main meal. For example, baklava and its relatives are usually
eaten with coffee, as a snack or after a kebab dish. So, to further our
education in Turkish cuisine we will survey the various types of
sweets. By far, the most common dessert
after a meal is fresh seasonal fruit that acquires its unique taste from
an abundance of sun and old-fashioned ways of cultivation and
transportation. Spring will start with strawberries, followed by cherries
and apricots. Summer is marked by peaches, watermelons and melons.
Then, all kinds of grapes ripen in late summer, followed by green and
purple figs, plums, apples pears and quince. Oranges, mandarin oranges,
and bananas are among the winter fruits. For most of the spring and
summer, fruit is eaten fresh. Later, it may be used fresh or dried, in
commune, or made into jams and preserves. Among the preserves, the
unique ones to taste are the quince marmalade, the sour cherry preserve,
and the rose preserve (made of rose petals, which is not a fruit!). The
most wonderful contribution of Turkish cuisine to the family of
desserts, that can easily be missed by casual explorers, are the milk
desserts -the "muhallebi" family. These are among the rare types of
guilt-free puddings made with starch and rice flour, and, originally
without any eggs or butter. When the occasion calls for even a
lighter dessert, the milk can also be omitted; instead, the pudding may be
flavoured with citrus fruits, such as lemons or oranges. The milk desserts
include a variety of puddings, ranging from the very light and subtle
rose water variety to the milk pudding laced with strands of chicken
breast.
Grain-based desserts include baked pastries, fried yeast-dough pastries
and the pan-sauteed desserts. The baked pastries can also be referred to
as the baklava family. These are paper-thin pastry sheets that are brushed
with butter and folded, layered, or rolled after being filled with ground
pistachios, walnuts or heavy cream, and then baked, after which a syrup is
poured over them. The various types, such as the sultan, the nightingale's
nest, or the twisted turban differ according to the amount and placement
of nuts, size and shape of the individual pieces, and the dryness of
the final product. The "lokma" family is made by frying soft pieces of
yeast dough in oil and dipping them in a syrup. Lady's lips, lady's navel,
and vizier finger are fine examples.
"Helva" is made by
pan-sauteeing flour or semolina and pine nuts in butter before adding
sugar and milk or water, then briefly cooking until these are absorbed.
The preparation of helva is conducive to communal cooking. People are
invited for "helva conversations" to pass the long winter nights. The more
familiar tahini helva is sold in blocks at corner grocery
shops. Another dessert that
should be mentioned is a piece of special bread cooked in syrup, topped
with lots of walnuts and heavy cream. This is possibly the queen of all
desserts, so plan to taste it at the Ikmal Restaurant on the Ankara-Izmir
highway at Afyon. There are shops
where baklava, borek, or muhallebi are sold, exclusively or together with
other things. People come to these places for take away or to sit down at
one of the tables tucked away in a corner of the shop. The baklava shops
also usually feature water borek," an especially difficult borek to
make. Most borek shops also make milk puddings. These are excellent places
to eat breakfast or lunch at any time of the day, since the regular
restaurants may stop serving at two oclock in the afternoon. Many pudding
shops also serve chicken soup. In any event, it is possible to feast on
borek and milk pudding for an entire holiday if on a tight budget. Perhaps
the most well-known shop of this type is Saray on Istiklal street in the
Beyoglu district of Istanbul, in addition to the entire village of Sarıyer
on the Bosphorus. You have to be
in Turkey to get the real and the best taste of the above desserts.
However, in addition to the variety of Turkish Delights, there is a
lesser-known type of dessert that can be taken back home in a sweet box.
These are nut pastes - marzipan made of almonds and pistachios. The best
marzipan is sold at a tiny, unassuming shop in Bebek in Istanbul. A
few boxes usually will last for a month or
so and bring delight after dinner. Finally, candied chestnuts, a speciality
of Bursa, are among the most wonderful nutty desserts.
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