BEVERAGES: BEYOND TURKISH COFFEE AND
"AYRAN" Volumes have been written about Turkish coffee; its
history, its significance in social life, and the ambiance of the ubiquitous coffee
houses.
I-An introduction to Turkish cuisine.
II-A nurturing environment.
III-Kitchen of the imperial palace.
IV-A repertoire of food from the great food places.
a}Grains: Bread to borek
b}Grilled meats
c}Vegetables
d}"Meze" dishes to accompany the spirits.
e}Seafood
f}The real story of sweets: Beyond Baklava.
g}Beverages: Beyond Turkish coffee and "Ayran".
V-Food protocol for the culturally correct.
VI-Food and spirituality.
VII-Contemporary concerns: Diet and health
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Without some understanding of this background, it is easy to be
disappointed by the tiny brew with the annoying grounds, which an
uninitiated traveler (like Mark Twain) may accidentally end up
chewing. A few words of caution will have to suffice for the purposes
of this brief primer. First, the grounds are not to be swallowed, so sip
the coffee gingerly. Secondly, don't expect a caffeine surge with one shot
of Turkish coffee; it is not strong, just thick. Third, remember that it
is the setting and the company that matter; the coffee is just an excuse
for the occasion
Tea, on the other hand, is the main source of caffeine for the Turks. It
is prepared in a special way by brewing it over boiling water and served
in delicate, small, clear glasses to show the deep red color and to
transmit the heat to the hand. Drinking tea is such an essential part of a
working day that any disruption of the constant supply of fresh tea
is a sure way to sacrifice productivity. Once upon a time, so the story
goes, a lion escaped from the Ankara Zoo and took up residence in the
basement of an office building. It began devouring public servants and
executives. It even ate up a few ministers of state and nobody took
notice. It is said, however, that a posse was immediately formed when the
lion caught and ate the tea-man, the person responsible for the supply of
fresh tea!
A park without tea and coffee is inconceivable in Turkey. Thus, every spot
with a view has a tea-house or a tea-garden. These places may be under
plain tree under a plain tree overlooking the village or town square, on
top of a hill with majestic view of a valley or the sea, by a harbor, in a
market, on a roadside with a scenic view, by a waterfall, or in the woods.
Among the typical tea-gardens in Istanbul are the Emirgan on the European
side, Camlýca on the Anatolian side of the Bosphorus, the famous Pierre
Loti cafe, and the tea-garden in Uskudar. But the traditional
tea houses are beginning to disappear from the more tourist-oriented
seaside locations, in favour of pubs and
"Biergartens"
Among the beverages worth mentioning are excellent fruit juices. But, perhaps the most
interesting drink is "boza," traditionally sold in neighborhood streets by wandering
vendors on a winter's night. This is a thick, fermented drink made of wheat berries,
to be enjoyed with a dash of cinnamon and a handful of roasted chick peas. Boza can
also be found year-round at certain cafes or dessert shops. Finally, "sahlep" is a hot
drink made with milk and sahlep powder sprinkled with cinnamon. It is a good remedy for
sore throats and colds, in addition to being delicious.
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