I-An introduction to Turkish cuisine.
II-A nurturing environment.
III-Kitchen of the imperial palace.
IV-A repertoire of food from the great food places.
a}Grains: Bread to borek
b}Grilled meats
c}Vegetables
d}"Meze" dishes to accompany the spirits.
e}Seafood
f}The real story of sweets: Beyond Baklava.
g}Beverages: Beyond Turkish coffee and "Ayran".
V-Food protocol for the culturally correct.
VI-Food and spirituality.
VII-Contemporary concerns: Diet and health
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Among them, Islam is perhaps known to impose the most elaborate and strict
rules in this respect. In practice, these rules have been
reinterpreted in regional adaptations, particularly in Turkey, where
it is harder to find strict Muslims. In Anatolia, where a variety of Sufi
orders once flourished, food gained a spiritual dimension above dry
religious requirements, as seen in their poetry, music, and
practices.
Paradoxically, the month of Ramadan, when all Muslims are expected to fast
from dawn to dusk, is also a month of feasting and charitable feeding
of all those who are in need. Fasting is to purify the body and the soul
and at the same time, to develop a reverence for all blessings bestowed by
nature and cooked by a skillful chef. The days are spent preparing food
for the breaking of the fast at sunset. It is customary to break the fast
by eating a bite of "heavenly" food such as olives or dates and nibbling
lightly on a variety of cheeses, slices of sausage, jams and pide. This
would be followed by the evening prayers and then the main meal. In the
old days, the rest of the night would be occupied by games and
conversations, or going into town to attend the various musicals and
theaters, until it was time to eat again just before the firing of the
cannon or the beating of the drums marking the beginning of the next day's
fasting. People would rest until noon, when shops and work places opened
and food preparation began. The other major religious
holiday is the
"Sacrifice Festival," commemorating Abraham's readiness to sacrifice his
son to God. But God sent him a ram instead, sparing his son's life. Some
of the meat of the butchered animal is sent to neighbors and to the needy.
The sheep is revered as the creature of God that gives its life
for a higher purpose. The henna coloring on the sheep is a symbolic way of
showing this respect and so are the strict instructions for
slaughtering. Several
occasions commemorating prophets also involve food. The six holy nights
marking events in Mohammed's life are celebrated by baking special
pastries, breads and lokma. The month of "Muharrem" occurred when the
flood waters receded, and Noah and his family were able to land. It is
believed that then they cooked a meal using whatever remained in their
supplies. This event is celebrated by cooking "asure", or Noah's pudding,
made of wheat berries, dried legumes, rice, raisins, currants, dried figs,
dates and nuts. You can also taste this most nourishing pudding at certain
muhallebi shops.
The feast of Zachariah is prepared upon being granted
one's wish. This feast consists of a spread of forty one different types
of dried fruits and nuts served to guests. Prayers are read and everyone tastes
all forty one foods. A guest can then burn a candle and make a wish. If the wish comes
true, one is obligated to prepare a similar "Zachariah Table" for
others. Beyond these
practices, examples of a religious tradition imbued with food metaphors
are found in Sufism in general, and in the poetry of Mevlana Celaleddin
Rumi in particular, as well as in the verses of classical Turkish poetry
and music. In fact, to understand the full meaning of this spiritual
tradition would be impossible without deciphering the references to food
and wine, cooking, eating, and intoxication. Mevlana, who lived in Konya
in the 13th century A.D., represents an approach to Sufism that
follows the Way of Love to Divine Reality; rather than Knowledge, or
gnosis. As mentioned earlier, the food-related guilds and the Janissaries
also followed the Sufi Order. A clash of philosophies on food is told
in a story about Empress Eugenie's French chef, who was sent to the
Sultan's kitchen to learn how to cook an eggplant dish. He soon
begged to be excused from this impossible task, saying that when he took
his book and scales with him, the Turkish chef threw all of them out the
window, because "an Imperial chef must learn to cook with his
feelings, his eyes and his nose" - in other words, with
love. Asceticism, rather
than hedonistic gluttony is associated with Sufism, and yet food occupies
an important place. Followers of the Order began with the simplest menial
duties in dervish lodges which always included huge kitchens. After a
thousand and one days of service, the novice would become fully "cooked"
and become a full member of the Brotherhood. In other woods, being
"cooked" refers to spiritual maturity. One wonders if the Turkish
tradition of cooking everything until it is soft and well done has
anything to do with this association (cooking al dente has no
meaning to Turks). The story of the
chick pea told by Mevlana in his "Mathnawi" is a superb example of this
idea. When the tough legume is cooked in boiling water, it complains to
the woman cooking it. She explains to it that this is necessary so that it
can be eaten by human beings, become part of human life and thus be
elevated to a higher form. The fable of the chick pea describes the
suffering of the soul before its arrival at Divine Love. The peasant
eating helva for the first time symbolizes the discovery of Divine Love by
the dervish. There is also the image of Allah preparing the helva for
the true dervishes. In this particular verse, the whole universe, as
it were, is pictured as a huge pan with the stars as cooks! In other
verses, the Beloved is described as being as tasty as salt, or as a Friend
who has "sugar lips." Wine also represents the maturation of the
human soul, similar to the ordeal the sour grape endures. So many mystical
meanings are attributed to wine that the name "tavern" stands for the Sufi
hospice and experiencing Divine Love is described by the metaphor of
"intoxication".
These mystical ideas are still very much alive in present-day Turkey, where food
and liquor are enjoyed with recitations of mystical poetry and dignified
conversation. Often these gatherings provide an occasion for people to
distance themselves from earthly matters and transcend into mysticism and
promises of a better life hereafter.
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