I-An introduction to Turkish cuisine.
II-A nurturing environment.
III-Kitchen of the imperial palace.
IV-A repertoire of food from the
great food places.
a}Grains: Bread to borek
b}Grilled meats
c}Vegetables
d}"Meze" dishes to accompany the
spirits.
e}Seafood
f}The real story of sweets:
Beyond Baklava.
g}Beverages: Beyond Turkish coffee
and "Ayran".
V-Food protocol for the culturally
correct.
VI-Food and spirituality.
VII-Contemporary concerns:
Diet and health
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Ironically as McDonald's and Pizza Huts are popping up everywhere,
the traditional way of eating is also making a come-back. What our
grandmothers knew all the time is now being confirmed by modern
science: a diet which is fundamentally based on grains, vegetables and
fruits with meat and dairy products used sparingly and as flavoring, is a
healthy one. Furthermore, some combinations are better than others,
because they complement each other for balanced nutrition. Turkish cuisine
sets an example in these respects. The recent "food-pyramid" endorsed by
the United
States Department of Agriculture resembles age-old practices in
ordinary households. Even the well-known menus of boarding schools or army
kitchens, hardly known for their gourmet characteristics, provide
excellent nutrition that can be justified by the best of today's
scientific knowledge. One such combination, jokingly referred to as
"our national food," is beans and pilaf. accompanied by pickles and quince
compote - a perfectly nourishing combination which provides the
essential proteins, carbohydrates and minerals. Another curious
practice is combining spinach with yogurt. Now we know that the body needs
calcium found in the yogurt to assimilate the iron found in the
spinach.
Yogurt, a contribution of the Turks to the world, has also become a
popular health food. A staple in the Turkish diet, it has been known all
along for its detoxifying properties. Other such beliefs, not yet
supported by modern science, include the role of the onion, used liberally
in all dishes, in strengthening the immune system along with garlic for
high blood pressure and olive oil as a remedy for forty-one ailments. The
complicated debate concerning mono- and polyunsaturated fats and good and
bad cholesterol is ridiculously inadequate to evaluate olive oil. Given
what we know about health food today one could even envy the typical lunch
fare of the proverbial construction worker who eats bread, feta cheese and
fresh grapes in the summer and bread and tahini helva in the winter. The
variety of pastry turnovers with cheese or ground meat, meat pide, or
kebabs are fast food for millions of working people. These are all
prepared entirely on the premises using age-old
practices.
One of
the main culprits in the modern-day diet is the snack, that horrible junk
food designed to give a quick sugar-high to keep one going for the rest of
the day. Again, modern science has come to the rescue, and healthy snacks
are now being discovered. Some of these are amazingly familiar to the
Turks! Take, for example, the "fruit roll-ups." Visit any dried-food store
that sells nuts and fruits, and you will see the authentic version, such
as sheets of mashed and dried apricots and grapes. In these stores, there
are many other items that await the discovery of some pioneering
entrepreneur from Western markets. Another wholesome snack, known as
"trail mix" or "gorp", is well-known to all Turkish mothers, who
traditionally stuff a handful of mixed nuts and raisins in the pockets of
their children's school uniform to snack on before exams. This practice
can be traced to ancient fables, where the hero goes on a diet of
hazelnuts and raisins before fighting with the giants and dragons, or
before weaving the king a golden smock. The Prince always loads onto
the mythological bird, the 'Zumrut Anka", forty sacks of nuts and raisins
for himself, and water and meat for the bird that takes him over the
high Caucasus
Mountains.
As
far as food goes, it is reassuring to know that we are rediscovering what is good for
our bodies. Nevertheless, one is left with the nagging feeling that such knowledge will
always be incomplete as long as it is divorced from its cultural context and metaphysical
traditions. The challenge facing modern Turkey is to achieve such continuity
in a time of genetic engineering, high-tech mass production and the growing
number of convenience oriented households. But for now, the markets are
vibrant and the dishes are tastier than ever, so enjoy!!
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